There’s no doubt the emerald is a captivating gemstone. Cleopatra loved them; the Mughals associated their colourand the Incas believed their goddess prized them above all else. Though it’s an unconventional option for an engagement ring, an emerald can make a striking statement. Halle Berry, Jackie Kennedy and Zoe Saldana have all chosen them to great effect. But emeralds are very different to diamonds, rubies or sapphires, and clients should make sure they understand their unique properties before committing to such a bold choice.
The first thing to note is that the Gemological Institute of America defines emerald as a ‘Type 3’ gemstone. This means that it’s very rare to find an emerald that is completely free of blemishes (or ‘inclusions’) that are visible to the naked eye. These inclusions can be tiny fractures or cleavages, growth lines in the crystal, or mineral impurities. This is simply the nature of emerald, and it’s unfair to judge it by the same clarity standards that are applied to other gemstones such as diamonds.
shutterstock_270049220.jpg)
If the inclusions are very large or too prominent then they will disfigure the stone. But small inclusions should be seen as the emerald’s unique ‘fingerprints’, created naturally when the crystal formed beneath the earth’s crust. Emeralds that are almost totally “clean” are unusual and very expensive, so if you hate the idea of any visible blemishes, then emerald is probably the wrong gemstone for you.
Another consideration is that the inclusions within an emerald are natural weak spots within the crystal. If an emerald gets knocked against a hard object, it’s possible for an inclusion to open up, and become more apparent. This compounds the fact that even the ‘cleanest’ emerald will never be the hardest of gemstones. With a Mohs Hardness Score of 7.5-8.0, emerald lags well behind ruby and sapphire (9) and doesn’t come close to diamond (10). While careless handling can damage any engagement ring, clients who chose emerald need to be particularly careful to avoid scratching or chipping the gemstone
If you are happy to live with some minor blemishes and are prepared to take good care of your ring, the next thing to think about is your emerald’s colour. Emerald is composed of beryl with trace elements of chromium, vanadium, and iron, and it’s the relative quantities of these elements that determine the stone’s colour. Without them, it technically isn’t an emerald at all, but a ‘green beryl’ which has a much lower market value.
Copyright lmphoto - Shutterstock
If you find a stone with good colour and clarity, the final aspect to consider is whether or not it has been enhanced through some treatment. If an emerald has disfiguring inclusions that reach the surface, these might be filled with resin or glass to improve the stone’s appearance. Unfortunately, this can make the stone vulnerable to heat, changes in air pressure, and a wide range of chemicals.
Another potential problem is the use of coloured dyes to enhance the saturation of emeralds. These dyes can often be dissolved by chemicals such as alcohol or acetone, and exposure to strong sunlight can also cause them to fade.
Many emeralds are submerged in oil at the point when they are cut, to mask inclusions and enhance colour. This process is centuries-old and needn't necessarily be a problem, but like any form of treatment, it should certainly be disclosed to the consumer. Over time, the oil will tend to dry out, and the stone will eventually need to be re-oiled. Luckily this isn’t a difficult or expensive process.
A jeweller positioning an emerald in a ring
Copyright Lakeview Images Shutterstock
Emeralds are wonderful gems, but perhaps more than any other gemstone they require a bit of specialist knowledge if you are going to get it right. Consumers should be careful, but shouldn’t be discouraged - if you’re looking for a striking and distinctive engagement ring, an emerald could be a great choice.
If you like this post check out my article How To Buy A Wedding Ring.
* This article is a guest post by David Rhode, of ethical jeweller Ingle & Rhode)
shutterstock_270049220.jpg){kind=link}
Emeralds are truly a beautiful gem stone. I used to work in the jewellery quarter and loved being surrounded by gorgeous stones all day.
ReplyDeleteI bet that was an interesting job, I had my own jewellers for many years :)
DeleteEmeralds are my favourite gem stone. They are stunning
ReplyDeleteEvery emerald is different and beautiful in my eyes.
Deletei love emerald , the colour is almost mesmorising to me , especially in a stunning stone set like it is here
ReplyDeleteInteresting - I learnt a lot - never knew oiling an emerald was such a thing.
ReplyDeleteI learnt about this when i was studying for a jewellery diploma.
DeleteI accept all blemishes, I would gladly wear an emerald ring, personally I think it is a beautiful stone.
ReplyDeleteEach blemish adds character to the ring however the 'best' emeralds are blemish free. It depends on what you are looking for and how much you want to spend :)
DeleteThat's really interesting - I love emeralds x x
ReplyDeleteI hope the article was useful and informative.
DeleteThis was so interesting, love learning new facts and it is such a beautiful stone. If only someone would buy me one :)
ReplyDeleteI am glad you have learnt something new from my blog.
DeleteWhat a beautiful coloured stone although I still prefer diamonds.
ReplyDeleteEmerald's are gorgeous and diamonds are too :)
DeleteI really want an emerald ring, such beautiful stones
ReplyDeleteI have a beautiful emerald ring - I wonder who sold me it ;) I am lucky to have a friend with such knowledge on things. x
ReplyDeleteI know you cherish your beautiful emerald ring Sarah-Louise!
DeleteI do love the look of emeralds, though I don't own any. This is a very informative post xx
ReplyDeleteEmerald is my birthstone so I have always had a soft spot for it.
ReplyDeleteI adore emerald jewellery its such a striking colour! i would love hubs to buy me more! :-)
ReplyDeleteYou need to speak to him then Jaime :)
DeleteI love emeralds, absolutely beautiful!
ReplyDeleteThe colour of emeralds is amazing - hard to believe they are natural. Kaz x
ReplyDelete